14 Apr 2012

A place to hide. Part Three.

While deciding how to do my woods I nearly landed on the idea I am presenting here, I spied it on another gaming blog but unfortunately I don't know which one, and no doubt it is not a wholly original idea.
I haven't actually assembled these just laid them out to show you all an alternative idea.
I started by buying some hexagonal bases from Warbases (Worth checking out anyway.) I think these are 40mm.  Then going back to part one of this tutorial I replaced the washers with the hexagonal bases.
Then it is just a matter of arranging the hex based woods as you see fit on the table top.
Probably a lot simpler than the method I settled on, and far more modular enabling you to make wooded hills and follow rivers etc a bit easier, but maybe not as aesthetically pleasing.

A place to hide. Part Two.

So after getting excited and devouring the new FoW rule book (Also going to Kenya to get married.) I have finished making my woods.
I started by getting some 3mm MDF from a local DIY store and marking out rough areas of the bases and where I want the tree bases to sit on each base, I don't make them too dense as woods are area terrain and true LOS isn't involved, just enough to make the base look like a wooded area.  About 8-9 on each base.
I then router out a 1.5mm deep 26mm recess where I want each tree base to sit.  26mm twin flute router bits are not cheap and you would need a router with a 1/2" collet, I'm just lucky enough to have one available to me.  An alternative would be to use a 26mm hole cutter and gluing 2 piece of MDF together once you have the holes cut, a drill would suffice for this, though you will have thicker bases for your woods.
Or, if you have some skill with a router, making a template and using a smaller bit is also a possibility.
As I am using a 26mm bit which is designed for cutting channels there is a small raised area in the centre of each recess, these are easily chiselled away.
The more astute of you will of already realised I routered out the recesses before cutting the bases out, this makes the sheet of MDF easier to control when you are using a tool trying to spin it around at a rate of knots.  So once I have all the recesses done I cut the bases out (I have a tabletop fret saw, but a jig saw would do just as well.) sand the edges and am ready to proceed.
I found some pre-cut, 25mm, self adhesive, magnetic discs on the Magnetic Displays website, and decided it was worthwhile buying these rather than cutting out my own from some magnetic paper.  It was a simple matter of peeling of the backing and sticking them in the holes, though I decided to spread a bit of contact adhesive in each hole before doing this to improve the chances of them not coming out in the future.
Then once the magnets are in place I can set the trees (Based on steel washers, remember.) into the recesses and not worry about them moving.
I can even tilt the base and the trees stay put.
And when they get in the way they are easily moved.

All I need to do now is finish the bases to match my other terrain.  I have a different method to show you that is more modular in its approach and is really simple, but that will wait for part three.