10 Feb 2012

Wohoo. (Or the real reason my woods tutorial is in 2 parts.)

All I have to say so far is that it smells fantastic.
Seriously after a quick flick, we have a real index, loads of diagrams and for me a really nice touch is the fact the top of each facing page has the section title so you can find your way around easier.

Going for a long sit, as my Father used to say when he disappeared with the paper.

A place to hide. Part One.

Woods, gotta love 'em.  A great way of covering your advance, somewhere to spring an ambush from and even something to keep you safer from flying tank killers.  I'm looking at you Typhoons and Hs129B3s.
Pain in the arse to make though, and can turn out costly, but in my constant efforts to build tables on the cheap I've come up with this.
I'm not ashamed to admit that I buy my trees, I found an eBay supplier Everest Model that I get them from.

These are 65mm tall and work out at a little over 20pence each, bargain.  He also sells trees in all types of sizes and other small bits and pieces that are on a 'future project' list I carry in my head.  They come un-based though so after a bit of head scratching I went and bought a pack of these.
Small hex nuts, with an internal diameter that will take the trunks of the trees quite snugly, if memory serves me these are M3 in size.
I then glue them onto a 25mm disc, in this case I use washers with as small a hole in as possible, I found them in my local B&Q.  Plastic bases can also do the job but I plan to add some magnetic goodness to my woods so have gone for washers.
Then glue the tree into the washer.
Repeat, until you get bored.
All very well, but the bases don't look too good, to remedy that I go to my local hardware store and buy a tub of this.  (Actually I don't go because it's what I use on my bases, so I had some already.)
And cover the washer and hex nut with some plaster, it may help to add a drop of water, and I mean a drop, too much will just make a mess, I also use a tongue depressor as a spatula and as a spreader, not just for basing hedges.
Again, repeat until bored.  I have stuck a base of Grenadiers and an M10C into the shot so you can get an idea of the size of the trees.
Once the plaster has dried (I leave it overnight.) I'll paint it to match my Infantry bases, a tip here is to paint a layer of watered down (Milk like.) PVA glue onto the plaster before painting, this means the plaster wont soak up as much paint and it'll go a bit further.
So there you have it, 24 trees based, waiting to be painted and awaiting the wood bases that will turn them into area terrain.  That'll be covered in part two.

A place to hide. Part Two.

8 Feb 2012

Hedgerows, quick and fairly cheap.

Hedgerows in FoW are great, they slow things down, provide concealment and generally help a table feel more 'real'.  Not to be confused with Bocage which really mixes things up on the table with a slew of rules attached to it hedgerows are covered by the basic terrain rules in the rules books.
And even better I have a quick way of making them so I can cover tables even quicker.
As you can see fairly effective looking, in fact the only step I would add is to flock the edges of the basing materials.
So to start I grab the following;

  • My trusty Hot Glue gun, you could use PVA or tacky glue, but this is faster.
  • Tongue depressors, the thing doctors stick in your mouth then get you to say 'Ahh'.
  • Clump foliage, a spongy green material, mine is made by Woodland Scenics.
  • Left over fences from the paper terrain Russian buildings I made a while back.
  • Army Painter Rat Fur Brown spray, though any brown spray would do, this is what I had to hand.
First step was to paint a handful of tongue depressors with a brown spray, you could brush paint them but I'm all for getting scenery on the table fast, so I can play more and paint more minis.  This helps disguise the wooden sticks.  Tongue depressors are readily available on eBay in boxes of 100, think lollipop sticks but broader, I also use them to stick infantry to for painting.
Then run a strip of hot glue along the length of the stick (Waiting for the paint to dry of course.) and stick the clump foliage into the hot glue before it sets.  Clump foliage is great, 100 times better than Lichen and comes in a variety of colours, I bought 3 large bags in 3 differing shades of green and haven't made a dent in it yet so I think I have a lifetimes supply for a little over £30.
It's easy to tear larger clumps into smaller pieces and the irregular shape gives a more natural look, I mixed the colours together and don't make any decision when pulling it out of the box and it breaks up the line of hedges nicely.  Giving me a line of foliage on a stick that looks like this.

Pretty neat and does the job.

'But what about the leftover fences?' I hear you ask, simple, hedgerows need breaks, both aesthetically and game wise.  (A path of unrestricted movement.)  So a few gates are needed, I put a gate in every fourth line of hedges quite simply by cutting up the left over fences.

And hot glue them to the middle of a stick.
Then glue foliage either side.
So there you go, a simple, quick method of making hedgerows, I may make some 1/2 size pieces if I decide they are necessary in the future and as mentioned above, some flock/static grass on the edged of the sticks would help improve the looks.  Going now to make a couple of tables worth.